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Exotics · Bought directly

Sell an exoticto someone who reads the book.

Ferrari, Lamborghini, McLaren, Porsche GT cars, Aston Martin, and the rest of what the trade calls exotic. Running, needing work, or sitting under a cover in a storage unit.

What decides the number

01

The service book, and the receipts behind it

This is the first thing any real buyer asks for and the largest single swing in value. A stamped book with the invoices behind it can be worth more than twenty thousand miles of difference on the odometer. A gap of several years with nothing to show for it is priced as though the work is all still owed.

02

Where it sits in the major-service cycle

A car that has just had its major done — belts, fluids, and on the older mid-engine cars an engine-out job — is a different proposition from one that is due next year. Tell us the date and the mileage it was done at, not just that it "has been serviced".

03

Paint, panels and what the meter says

Serious buyers turn up with a paint depth gauge. Resprayed panels are not automatically a problem, but undisclosed ones are — a repaired car sold as original is a deal that unwinds. Disclose it and it gets priced; hide it and it gets discovered.

04

Factory spec and the original colour combination

Options that cost a fortune new mostly do not return their price, with a handful of famous exceptions — carbon ceramic brakes, lightweight seats, a factory rare colour. The original window sticker or build sheet is worth digging out.

05

Very low mileage cuts both ways

A car with delivery mileage carries a premium, and it also carries flat-spotted tyres, perished seals, old fluids and a fuel system that has been sitting. "Never driven" is a marketing line and a maintenance liability at the same time, and both get priced.

Have this ready

  • The service book and every invoice you have, however disorganised
  • The date and mileage of the last major service
  • Window sticker or factory build sheet if you have it
  • Tool kit, books, both keys, and any original parts that came off it
  • Any pre-purchase inspection ever done on it, including ones that found faults

Whole, or in parts?

Whole, almost always. An exotic with documentation is worth substantially more assembled than dismantled, and breaking one that could have been sold intact destroys value that cannot be put back. The exception is a genuinely damaged car — and there the individual parts are extraordinary, because the people repairing these cars have very few places to buy from.

  • Damaged or fire cars, where parting is the only sensible route
  • Engines and gearboxes with documented history
  • Carbon bodywork and factory wheels
  • Interior trim in a rare specification

Questions we get about exotics

Does it need to be running?

No. Cars that have sat are one of the most common calls we take, and a car that has not turned a wheel in five years is a known quantity — it needs fluids, a fuel system, tyres and a battery. That is priced, not a reason to walk away.

It has a salvage or rebuilt title. Are you interested?

Yes, and it changes the number rather than ending the conversation. Be direct about what happened and what was repaired. A rebuilt exotic with the repair documented sells; one where the history has to be reconstructed by the buyer does not.

Will somebody want to see it in person?

For anything at this level, yes — either us or an inspector acting for us. That is normal and it protects you as much as it protects us, because an inspection converts a negotiation into a number.

Can this be handled discreetly?

Yes. No public listing goes up unless you want one. A direct purchase means the car does not sit advertised with your details attached to it.

Tell us what you have. One form, a person reads it, and we come back either way.

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