Electric · Bought directly
Sell an EVincluding one with a bad pack.
Tesla, Nissan, Chevrolet, Hyundai, Kia, Ford, Rivian, Polestar and the rest. Healthy cars, degraded ones, and salvage EVs that will never drive again but are carrying a very valuable pack.
What decides the number
Battery state of health, as a number
The usable capacity remaining against what it left the factory with is the single figure that decides an EV’s value, and it is the one thing most sellers arrive without. Most cars will show it in a service menu or through an OBD reader. A measured percentage is worth far more to a valuation than "it still does about the same range".
Remaining battery warranty, and whether it transfers
Battery and drive-unit warranties run far longer than the rest of the car — commonly eight years or a hundred thousand miles — and on most makes they transfer to the next owner. Years of transferable pack cover left is one of the largest numbers on this page, and it is frequently overlooked entirely.
How it was charged for its whole life
A car that lived on DC fast charging degrades differently from one that trickled overnight on AC. The charging history is visible on many cars and it explains a pack’s condition better than mileage does. Also worth knowing: whether the DC port itself still works, because a failed one is a specific and pricey repair.
Software-locked features may not come with it
Range unlocks, driver-assistance packages and acceleration upgrades are often tied to the original owner’s account rather than to the car, and several manufacturers have removed them on resale. Assume a feature you paid to unlock does not transfer unless you can show that it does — it is better to find that out now than to have it discovered afterwards.
Thermal management and any history of it
Whether the pack is liquid-cooled or air-cooled, and whether it has ever thrown a thermal or isolation fault, tells us more about its future than its current range does. Any pack that has been opened, repaired or had modules replaced needs saying.
Have this ready
- Battery state of health as a percentage, from the car or an OBD reader
- Battery and drive-unit warranty expiry, in years and miles
- Whether it lived on DC fast charging or overnight AC
- Any pack, inverter, charger or isolation faults it has ever thrown
- Which paid software features are on the car, and in whose account
Whole, or in parts?
An EV that will never drive again is not scrap in the way a combustion car would be. The pack, drive units and onboard charger are the expensive parts of the vehicle and they are exactly what independent EV repairers cannot buy new at a sane price — so a wrecked EV with an intact pack frequently returns more in parts than a running example of the same car sells for.
- The battery pack, whole or by module, including packs with individual bad modules
- Front and rear drive units and inverters
- Onboard chargers and DC-DC converters
- Heat pumps and thermal management assemblies
Questions we get about electric vehicles
The battery is badly degraded or dead. Is it worth anything?
Yes, and often considerably more than people expect. A pack with failed modules is repairable by people who do that work, and a pack that is finished as a car battery still has value in second-life storage. A dead pack is a reason to talk to us, not a reason not to.
It is a salvage or flood EV.
We buy those, with one condition: nobody should be opening it. A damaged high-voltage pack, and a water-damaged one in particular, is genuinely dangerous and needs handling by people trained for it. Leave it alone, tell us what happened, and let us arrange the collection.
Does the battery warranty transfer?
On most makes yes, and it is worth confirming for yours because it is one of the biggest numbers in the valuation. Have the in-service date and the mileage to hand — warranty runs from when the car was first delivered, not from when you bought it.
Can you collect one that does not run?
Yes, and it needs the right equipment rather than a rope and a friend. A non-running EV usually cannot be towed on its driven wheels without damaging the motors, so it goes on a flatbed. That is arranged as part of the purchase.
Tell us what you have. One form, a person reads it, and we come back either way.
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